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Add another quality eatery to the
vigorous Ferndale dining scene. Offering
fresh Lebanese food and specialty items,
newly opened Anita's Kitchen has had a
healthy flow of business from the day it
opened in January. But this self-styled café
and marketplace is no beginner in the
industry. Anita Farah's name has been
locally synonymous with tasty Mediterranean
cuisine for more than 25 years.
Now it's a family thing. In 2002, Anita's
daughter, Jennifer Wegrzyn, and Jennifer's
husband, Joe, moved from Chicago to take
over day-to-day operations at Anita's
Kitchen in Troy — not only to give the
parents a break, but also to get a sense of
whether they wanted to expand the operation.
That's not to say Anita and her husband,
Pierre, are no longer involved in the
action. On the contrary, Pierre will
sometimes put in a 70-hour week. And the
food is still a result of the pair's
background in the northern Lebanese city of
Hasroun, near Tripoli.
The Wegrzyns expanded in both size and
scope. To set the new Anita's Kitchen apart
from the diner-like basics of the Troy
location, the couple contributed their urban
sensibilities to the atmosphere. Earth tones
of avocado and red ochre predominate, and
cozy fabrics hang from the high, exposed
ceiling. Faux wicker chairs sit beneath
cedar-topped tables, and subdued down-tempo
tunes seep from the corners. Somehow the
space is filled with the sensation of warm
Mediterranean breezes, though sitting near
the entryway in the dead of winter might
bring in a northern brand of wind. They're
working to fix that issue.
When the weather warms, a large, covered
outdoor dining area will open up. Diners can
hang outside three out of four seasons with
the help of heaters. There is talk of future
live music and cocktails on the patio. For
now, the bar serves beer, wine and your
daily allowance of fruit and vegetables via
raw juice and smoothies. Fresh concoctions
include the sweet-tart and frothy dark berry
"anti-oxinator" and the tropical "wango
tango." Jennifer Wegrzyn reckons the cool
flavors of cantaloupe and mint will make the
"Motown melon" a summer favorite. If none of
the house mixtures appeals to you, create
your own from the well-stocked produce list.
For the harder stuff, examine the small
but diverse wine selection, including a
couple Lebanese reds. Almost all 19 wines
are available by the glass and priced in
line with the food. In the first few weeks
they were open without a liquor license,
Anita's asked their customers what beers
they would like to see on draft. The
consensus was a selection of three Michigan
craft brews highlighted by "Lucid," the
clean and fruity Kölsch-style ale from New
Holland Brewing. There are a couple more
widely recognizable brands in the bottle as
well as a surprisingly tasty Lebanese
pilsner that pairs splendidly with most of
the menu.
Drink one with the popular chicken feta
fattoush, a salad loaded with vegetables and
toasted pita chips then topped by savory
chicken shawarma and tangy feta. One regular
has been known to order it several days in a
row. Salads and veggie-intensive appetizers
fill a good portion of the menu. There are
even a few unique pita pizzas. As with most
Mediterranean cuisines, Lebanese is
considered to be a very balanced, healthy
diet.
If meat is your thing, you can easily
fill up with kebabs or shawarma. Lamb is
prominent in the form of chops, shanks and
kibbeh, a mixture of ground lamb and cracked
wheat that can be ordered baked or raw. Of
course, there are also a couple fish dishes.
Then you have that extraordinary, almost
in-between dish, falafel, invented for
vegetarians that like the texture of meat.
Anita's makes them just right.
The ideal sampler is Anita's "mixed mezza"
— for $30 you get a plate of hummus,
tabbouleh, fattoush and crunchy pickled
vegetables with a touch of heat. You'll also
get a small plate of stuffed grape leaves
and falafel, and even another plate filled
with rice and an assortment of shish kebabs
and shawarma. The menu claims it serves two
to four people. We found it served two for
dinner, a late night snack, and lunch the
next day. The mixed mezza comes in a
vegetarian version for $24. For an apt
finish to a meal, order a pot of Turkish
coffee and a tender, not-too-sweet piece of
baklava.
In recent years, the structure just south
of Nine Mile Road next to Ferndale's post
office has been a dry cleaner, a vacant
building, and an ice cream parlor. Now that
it's Anita's Kitchen, we expect it to stay
that way for a long time to come.

Todd Abrams dines for Metro Times.
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