Thursday, February 14, 2008
Molly Abraham:
Anita's in Ferndale is a refreshing new spot
for Lebanese

Anita's Kitchen has been a familiar name since Anita Farah opened
the first one in 1981 and established her reputation as a top-notch
Lebanese cook.
Now there's a new outpost, subtitled Lebanese Cafe & Marketplace,
and it has a fresh look and feel that gives it something extra.
The airy, contemporary space with uncovered windows that look out on
Woodward Avenue just south of Nine Mile is contemporary in every
respect, from the black ceiling with exposed ductwork to the
concrete-topped bar, lively American background music (no wailing
flutes here) and friendly staff in black T-shirts inscribed with
catchphrases like "Got Hummus?"
Note the subtle motif of olive branches etched on the windows, the
kite-like swoops of fabric that fill in the high-ceiling space, the
carefully chosen wines and boutique beers that accompany the food,
and you can see that this is something more than just another spot
for falafel and grape leaves.
Anita and Pierre Farah's daughter, Jennifer, and her husband, Joe
Wegrzyn, moved back from Chicago to help establish the new spot, and
they bring fresh enthusiasm to the project.
The place seats 70 indoors, and as soon as weather permits, the
shaded patio on the side of the building will open to accommodate
another 50.
While it's a completely casual setting, with bare-topped tables and
paper napkins, its attributes include some of the best Lebanese fare
around.
Everything I've sampled in two visits has been top-notch, from the
little servings of fresh tabbouleh and hummus that garnish almost
every plate -- and of course, may be ordered in larger portions on
their own -- to the tender shish kafta, made with a blend of subtly
seasoned ground lamb and beef, and the shish tawook (charbroiled
chicken breast).
In addition to the expected lemon lentil soup, the menu offers at
least two others each day, perhaps tomato Florentine, black bean or
chicken orzo, and the list of 10 salads includes, in addition to
various mixtures of fresh greens with cucumbers, tomatoes, olives
and green pepper, a notable one combining chickpeas, cracked wheat,
fresh mint and parsley with lemon-garlic and olive oil dressing that
Jennifer Wegrzyn came up with.
Anita's Kitchen opened on Jan. 2 and immediately got a warm welcome
from the neighborhood. This is going to be a very popular spot for
all the right reasons.
You can reach Molly Abraham at (313) 222-1475 or
abraham67@comcast.net.
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